BROMINE: An alternative to chlorine to kill any bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, or other contaminates that are present in pool water. For more specific information on bromine, select from the following topics:
TYPES OF BROMINE: Bromine is an alternative to chlorine. Bromine comes in both tablet and granular form. But, bromine tablets are used far more often that is granular bromine. In fact, most chemical manufacturers of bromine do not even package or sell granular bromine in bulk (25 LB or 50LB buckets).
There are certain differences between bromine and chlorine. Bromine is more stable than chlorine at higher (hotter) water temperatures. This explains why bromine is an overwhelming choice to sanitize, disinfect and oxidize spa water. Due to the presence of ammonia, bromamines (like chloramines) will be present in pool water. But, unlike chloramines, bromamines are at least marginally effective at assisting with sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing the water.
The main drawback of bromine is that it is expensive. Coupled with Potassium Peroxymonosulfate-the expensive non-chlorine shock that typically accompanies bromine's use-bromine is very expensive. Yet another drawback of bromine is that it will be destroyed by sunlight. To heighten this disadvantage, bromine cannot be protected by Cyanuric Acid. Therefore, an already expensive product will cost even more to maintain, due to loss from sun exposure.
The pH value of bromine is 4.0, which like chlorine tablets is very acidic. Therefore, like chlorine tablets (as well as like ANY chemical), bromine should NEVER be placed in a skimmer. To fully combat this drawback of bromine, merely check the pH often (as you should do anyways) and place the bromine tablets in an automatic bromine feeder. If you do not own an automatic bromine feeder - a brominator - it is really a worthwhile investment to have your local pool professionals install one for you. Although an automatic bromine feeder is best, a floater will work, but you will constantly have to remove it from the skimmer, as that is where suction will draw it.
Please understand that bromine is very effective, as witnessed by its growing customer base. Therefore if you can afford it, and are comfortable with it, then by all means, use bromine.
DUTIES OF BROMINE: Bromine itself is a sanitizer and disinfectant for water; it contains a catalyst in order to oxidize water. By sanitizing, bromine will kill all bacteria, living organisms, and other contaminates (dirt, debris, and algae spores) that are found in water. By disinfecting, bromine will kill all potential disease-carrying capabilities of these bacteria, living organisms, and other contaminates. But, bromine itself has no ability to oxidize-ability to combine with, in order to kill, these invaders, primarily the ammonia that is found in water.
Bromine will take a leadership role to sanitize and disinfect pool water. But, since bromine itself cannot oxidize, bromine is a compound of bromine and an oxidizing agent, which is often chlorine (many pool owners and even pool professionals do not realize that chlorine is often an ingredient in bromine). In other words, to be effective, bromine requires a catalyst, and the catalyst is often chlorine. The mixture of ingredients is typically close to 60% bromine, 28% chlorine, and 12% as inert (other) ingredients. In this final and packaged form then, bromine is a very effective, yet fairly expensive, sanitizer, disinfectant, and oxidizer.
But, you cannot just add bromine from time to time and expect to have clean, clear, blue and sparkling pool water. Rather, the bromine level must be continually monitored-almost daily-as it will fluctuate on a constant basis, primarily due to climate (temperature, humidity, sunlight, rain, wind, and evaporation) and bather load (the extent that you use your pool)-these are factors that will lead to additional bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and other contaminates being constantly present in your pool water.
Bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and other contaminates are present in any body of water, like your pool. If you do not believe this, then do not add any bromine to the water and see how quick it takes to transform your water from clean, clear, blue, and sparkling to cloudy, murky, and full of algae. We at poolmanual.com hope you understand this is a rhetorical dare. Rather, just let it be understood that these invaders are present in all water.
Bromine will combine with these invaders in order to kill them. Once engaged in battle with these invaders, only a portion of the bromine is available in the water while the remainder of the bromine is occupied by a continued influx of these invaders. This remaining bromine will not last long, as outside factors, such as climate (temperature, humidity, sunlight, rain, wind, and evaporation) and bather load (the extent that you use your pool) will add even more bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and other contaminates to your pool water. This constant reintroduction of invaders will occupy your previously remaining bromine, causing the bromine level to lessen.
This is a continuous cycle. Bromine is constantly sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing your pool water. Once the supply of bromine is used up, reinforcements are needed. This is why bromine levels must be tested and adjusted often: 3-4 times per week during normal conditions and normal use and almost daily during periods of scorching temperatures, unbearable humidity, and complete sunlight, as well as after heavy rains or fierce winds, and of course, after heavy bather loads; it also goes without mention that bromine levels must be tested daily under conditions of poor water chemistry (cloudy or murky water, and perhaps the presence of algae). The influx of bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and other contaminates is continuous-you had better test and adjust your bromine often in order to meet and exceed these needs.
NOTE: Bromine will combine with, but cannot successfully kill, ammonia by itself. For this reason, you must shock your pool on a regular basis.
NOTE: climate (which differs from region-to-region) and bather load (which differs from pool-to-pool) do determine how often you have to test and adjust your chemicals.
TERM: "BROMAMINES": Bromine must kill all bacteria, living organisms, , and other contaminants? Well, like chlorine, bromine is very effective at killing bacteria, living organisms, and other contaminates (which again are dirt, debris and algae spores), but when ammonia is present, bromine will combine with it, but cannot successfully kill it, and the two combine to form "Bromamines." Bromamines will remain in the water, and will register as bromine, but they are not as effective at sanitizing, disinfecting, or oxidizing as is standard bromine; unlike chloramines, bromamines are at least marginally effective at continuing to sanitize, disinfect, and oxidize.
Ammonia is commonly present in pool water from either environmental factors, a build up of fertilizers that are carried by wind and dropped into pools, from swimmer wastes (perspiration, urine, saliva and body oils), or even from some suntan lotions. No matter how ammonia enters a pool, it will exist.
So then, since bromamines are only marginally effective at sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing, how are they removed from the water? Easy - by shocking the pool on a consistent and regular basis. Even if you maintain a 2.5 - 4.0 ppm (ideal) bromine reading at all times by merely adding bromine tablets to the pool, the presence of ammonia will lead to Bromamines, preventing the bromine from being fully effective. The only way to combat Bromamines, and kill ammonia, is by shocking the pool.
NOTE: Over time, Bromamines will break down by themselves. But, since they are only marginally effect at sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing, bromamines should be eliminated from the water immediately-by shocking the pool on a regular basis. Unlike chloramines, bromamines will neither irritate your eyes or skin, nor will they lead to an unpleasant odor.
TERM: "TOTAL BROMINE": With chlorine, there is a determination between "Free" Chlorine and "Total" Chlorine. Free Chlorine measures the chlorine that is still available to continue sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing the water. Total Chlorine measures all chlorine in the water-Free Chlorine and the presence of Chloramines. It is necessary to separate Free Chlorine and the presence of Chloramines because Chloramines are so ineffective and undesired in the water.
Bromine does not categorize Free Bromine and Total Bromine. Rather, you just need to test for an overall and single bromine reading. Bromamines are at least marginally effective at sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing. They still need to be eliminated by shocking, but while present, they will elicit a degree of killing power.
You still need to test this bromine reading often: 3-4 times per week during normal conditions and normal use and almost daily during periods of scorching temperatures, unbearable humidity, and complete sunlight, as well as after heavy rains or fierce winds, and of course, after heavy bather loads; it also goes without mention that bromine levels must be tested daily under conditions of poor water chemistry (cloudy or murky water, and perhaps, the presence of algae). The influx of bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and other contaminates is continuous-you had better test and adjust your bromine often in order to meet and exceed these needs.
NOTE: (which differs from region-to-region) and bather load (which differs from pool-to-pool) do determine how often you have to test and adjust your chemicals.
IDEAL READING FOR BROMINE: You need to test the bromine reading often: 3-4 times per week during normal conditions and normal use and almost daily during periods of scorching temperatures, unbearable humidity, and complete sunlight, as well as after heavy rains or fierce winds, and of course, after heavy bather loads; it also goes without mention that bromine levels must be tested daily under conditions of poor water chemistry (cloudy or murky water, and perhaps, the presence of algae). You need to maintain a consistent 2.5 - 4.0 ppm bromine reading. You do have some room for error. The industry standard is 2.0 ppm as a minimum bromine reading; even though 2.0 ppm is acceptable, you are better off constantly maintaining that ideal 2.5 - 4.0 ppm reading. Also, make sure to shock the pool on a consistent and regular basis.
NOTE: climate (which differs from region-to-region) and bather load (which differs from pool-to-pool) do determine how often you have to test and adjust your chemicals.
WHY BROMINE MUST BE MONITORED: Your bromine is involved in a constant battle with invaders, such as bacteria, living organisms, ammonia, and other contaminates that are present in water. Environmental factors, such as climate (temperature, humidity, sunlight, rain, wind, and evaporation) are constantly introducing and reintroducing more invaders to your pool water-it is a cyclical and constant battle; at times, it is a daily battle. Furthermore, as the temperature, humidity, and sunlight increase, so to will your bather load (extent of use). You have to compensate for all of these factors. Your initial line of defense is understanding that water itself is never free of these invaders. From here, you need to engage in an implementation stage. The only way you can do this is by constantly testing and adjusting the bromine level to assure that it is between 2.5-4.0 ppm, as well as by shocking regularly.
NOTE: climate (which differs from region-to-region) and bather load (which differs from pool-to-pool) do determine how often you have to test and adjust your chemicals.
TESTING FOR BROMINE: There are two ways to test for bromine: test strips or test kits.
The use of test strips is really self-explanatory. Read the instructions on the bottle for all the "how to" instructions. Most test strips will test for pH and Alkalinity, as well as the bromine. Here are steps to using test strips:
The use of test kits is also popular. Read the instructions on the test kit for all the "how to" instructions. There are different types of bromine test kits. Here is a discussion:
One reagent to test bromine is called OTO. OTO is a colorimetric test that uses a reagent only. You simply:
The OTO test, which was once the standard test for bromine, is no longer the only reagent used. OTO tests are prone to errors. The pH and the Alkalinity can affect the accuracy of an OTO test.
A test now gaining popularity for bromine is the DPD test. The procedure is exactly the same as using the OTO reagent. Like chlorine, a DPD test can either be done via reagent or tablet. Also like chlorine, yet another advantage of the DPD test over the OTO test is that the DPD reagents and tablets are produced with an ingredient that buffers pH, so tests are less likely to elicit false readings at varying pH levels. But, with DPD, here are words of caution:
NOTE: Make sure you read the instructions on the test kit that you purchase, regardless if it is an OTO test kit or a DPD test kit. They will tell you all the "how to" instructions:
WHEN TO ADD BROMINE: The ideal range for bromine is 2.5 - 4.0 ppm. The industry minimum accepted bromine level is 2.0 ppm. It is the advice of poolmanual.com to add bromine to the pool when a bromine test shows the bromine level to be lower than 2.5 ppm. Due to work schedules and errands, this is hard to do. But remember, you do have that safety net of 2.0 ppm as a minimum.
If you allow your bromine level to drop to 2.0 ppm before you add bromine, you will get into trouble. Due to these same work schedules or errands, you may inadvertently neglect bromine for a day or two, and the level will drop below the 2.0 ppm minimum-this is where poor water chemistry issues, such as cloudy or murky water, as well as the presence of algae, become very probable.
Therefore, test bromine often: 3-4 times per week during normal conditions and normal use and almost daily during periods of scorching temperatures, unbearable humidity, and complete sunlight, as well as after heavy rains or fierce winds, and of course, after heavy bather loads; it also goes without mention that bromine levels must be tested daily under conditions of poor water chemistry (cloudy and murky water, and perhaps, the presence of algae). Water chemistry, as far as bromine is concerned, will be adequate as long as the bromine level is maintained between the ideal 2.5 - 4.0 ppm reading, and shocking is accomplished regularly.
NOTE: climate (which differs from region-to-region) and bather load (which differs from pool-to-pool) do determine how often you have to test and adjust your chemicals.
HOW TO ADD BROMINE: Again, granular bromine is virtually non existent in the market in bulk (25LB or 50 LB buckets). If you do use granular bromine, read the instructions on the label to determine if the bromine should be diluted in a bucket of water or broadcast directly from the container. The great majority of you bromine users will use bromine tablets. Without a doubt, the best way to add bromine tablets to a pool is via an automatic chemical feeder (often called a brominator). Adding bromine to an automatic chemical feeder is extremely easy. But, consult your local pool professionals for the following reason:
If you do not have an automatic chemical feeder, it really is a good investment to have your local pool professionals install one for you-it is an investment versus a service call. If you do not use an automatic chemical feeder, then place your bromine tablets in a floater. Make sure to remove the floater from the skimmer; you will constantly have to do this, as suction will ultimately draw the floater to the skimmer. NEVER place the bromine tablets directly in the skimmer basket(s).
NOTE: Regardless if you use tablets or granular, add the bromine when a reading from your test shows the bromine level to be just lower than 2.5 ppm.
NOTE: There are few aboveground automatic bromine feeders on the market. These automatic bromine feeders are a worthwhile investment. If you decide against the automatic feeder, get a floater, but you will have to constantly remove it from the skimmer area, as this is where suction will inevitably draw it. NEVER place your bromine, or any chemical, in the skimmer.
HOW TO LOWER BROMINE: In rare instances of maintaining a consistently high chlorine reading (5.5 ppm or higher), you can use a chemical called Sodium Thiosulfate to help lower the chlorine level. Sodium Thiosulfate will NOT lower bromine. If you get a consistently high bromine reading (7.5 ppm or higher), your initial action must be to discontinue adding bromine:
If the bromine stays high, you will need to drain the pool partially in order to rid the water of some bromine. Once drained, refill the pool to the standard operating water level (half way up the skimmer) and test the bromine to assure that the reading is between the 2.5 - 4.0 ppm ideal reading.
SHOCK AND BROMINE: Bromine is very effective at killing bacteria, living organisms, and other contaminates (which again are dirt, debris and algae spores), but when ammonia is present, bromine will combine with it, but cannot successfully kill it, and the two combine to form "Bromamines." Bromamines will remain in the water, and will register as bromine, but are not as effective at sanitizing, disinfecting, or oxidizing as is standard bromine.
Ammonia is commonly present in pool water from either environmental factors, a build up of fertilizers that are carried by wind and dropped into pools, from swimmer wastes (perspiration, urine, saliva and body oils), or even from some suntan lotions. No matter how ammonia enters a pool, it will exist.
So then, since bromamines are not real effective at sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing water, how are they removed from the water? Easy - by shocking the pool on a consistent and regular basis. Even if you maintain a 2.5 - 4.0 ppm (ideal) bromine reading at all times by merely adding bromine to the pool, the presence of ammonia will lead to Bromamines, preventing the bromine from being fully effective. The only way to combat Bromamines, and kill ammonia, is by shocking the pool.
NOTE: Over time, bromamines will breakdown by themselves. But, since they are not as effective as bromine itself in sanitizing, disinfecting, and oxidizing, they should be eliminated from the water immediately-this is best accomplished by shocking the pool on a regular basis.