HEATER: Optional pool equipment that is plumbed after your pump and filter (and perhaps before an automatic chemical feeder). A heater is a component that either uses natural gas, propane, or electricity to raise the temperature of the pool water. Heaters are most common in those regions that are forced to winterize the pool. A heater will extend the length of the pool season for these regions. A heater will not, however, allow these regions to have a year-round pool season. With freezing temperatures and other inclement weather, a winterize is inevitable for these regions, even with a heater.
For more specific information on heaters, select from the following topics:
NATURAL GAS HEATER: Equipment that uses natural gas to heat your pool water. You will need to make sure the pilot light is lit in order for the heater to work. There are 2 types of natural gas heaters:
PROPANE HEATER: Equipment that uses propane to heat your pool water. You will need to make sure the pilot light is lit in order for the heater to work. There are 2 types of propane heaters:
ELECTRIC HEATERS: Equipment that uses electricity to heat your pool water. Electric heaters are more commonly installed on inground spas than they are on pools.
BTU: British Thermal Unit. The BTU is used to determine the amount of heat that is required to raise 1 pound of water by 1° Fahrenheit. The only time that you will really need to know the BTU of your heater is when you are setting up a service call.
THERMOSTAT: An adjustable part of your heater to maintain the desired temperature. Once you set your heater to a desired temperature, the thermostat will turn "on" and "off" the heater once the desired temperature is reached. The thermostat usually utilizes a sticker around the dial-"blue" for cooler temperatures and "red" for hotter temperatures. If your heater has a difficult time reaching and maintaining your desired preset temperature, call your local pool professionals for a service call.
HIGH LIMIT SWITCH: A relay in your heater that will turn "off" the heater if the temperature of the water exceeds a manufacturer-preset maximum (usually around 104°). If the registered temperature of your water exceeds this maximum-acceptable level, the high limit will deactivate the heater. If this happens to your heater, call your local pool professionals for a service call.
PRESSURE SWITCH: A switch in the heater that senses the circulation of water through the heater. For your heater to heat, the circulation must be adequate. Therefore, if you heater is not heating, check the pump and skimmer baskets. If they are full, circulation will be restricted, and the pressure switch will not allow the heater to heat. To rectify, simply clean the baskets. If the baskets are clean, but the heater still will not heat, check the filter. If the filter is dirty, pressure within the equipment will be increased, leading to a decrease in circulation, causing the pressure switch to not allow the heater to heat. To rectify, simply clean the filter. If all of the baskets and the filter are clean, make sure the pilot light is lit. If all three areas are fine, call your local pool professionals for a service call.
BURNER ASSEBLY: an assembly to heat the heat exchanger.
HEAT EXCHANGER: The copper part of your heater that water will flow through in order to heat the water. The heat exchanger will transfer heat FROM the burner assembly TO the pool water. You do not need to know the mechanical specifics of transferring heat from the burner assembly to the pool water. Rather, just understand that in order for this transfer of heat to occur, your pool water will flow through, and ultimately come into contact with, the heat exchanger.
If your water is either "acidic" (having a pH level below 7.2) or "alkaline" (having a pH level above 7.8) and neglected, damage could result to the heat exchanger. Your unbalanced water will make demands on the heat exchanger, dissolving the copper. This will cause a green (or blue-green) tint to your pool water, and perhaps blue-green stains on your pool walls and floor. As expensive as it will be to restore water chemistry and clarity, the cost of the chemicals will not even come close to rivaling the cost of a new heat exchanger (literally anywhere from $300-$1200 depending on the manufacturer, model, and BTU of your heater; as you can see from the cost, the heat exchanger plays a major role in heating the water). Poor water chemistry-primarily high or low pH-has actually destroyed heat exchangers in as little as 3 months.
CAUTION WITH HEATERS: At times a heater will fail to ignite from accidental neglect rather than mechanical failure of the heater itself. The heater requires sufficient water flow through it in order for it to ignite and heat. If your heater is not heating the water, here are 3 troubleshooting techniques: