PUMP: The circulation equipment of your pool-the PUMP (circulation) and the FILTER (filtration) constitute what is known as your (mandatory) pool equipment; a heater and an automatic chemical feeder are optional equipment. A pump has a suction side and a discharge side. The suction side of the pump draws water out of the pool. The water is then transferred to the discharge side of the pump, where it is forced through the filter for cleaning (and perhaps a heater and an automatic chemical feeder) and sent back into the pool.

For more specific information on the pump, select from the following topics:

• PUMP HOUSING
• NAME PLATE
• DRAIN PLUG
• CLEANING THE PUMP BASKET
• MOTOR
• PRIMING THE PUMP

PUMP HOUSING: The front part of the pump. The pump housing is covered by a lid. Underneath the lid is the pump basket. The pump housing usually contains a nameplate that contains all the pertinent information about the pump itself. There is also a drain plug (or perhaps 2 drain plugs) threaded into the bottom of the pump housing. The pump housing and the motor are collectively called the pump.

The motor operates the pump housing, which has a suction side and a discharge side. The suction side is where the pump will draw (suck) water out of the pool. Once out of the pool, the water is transferred to the discharge side where the water is sent (discharged) through the filter and then back into the pool.

NAMEPLATE: Located on the pump housing-the front part of the pump that houses the pump basket. The nameplate contains all the pertinent information about the pump, such as:

• Manufacturer
• Model
• (if applicable), a Model Number
• Horsepower
• Speed (single or dual)-most pool pumps are single (high) speed
• Electrical Specifications (110 volt or 220 volt)

This is valuable information when you need a part (such as a lid, lid O-ring, pump basket, or drain plug) or when you need to report a service call.

NOTE: If the motor is the original motor that came with the pump, all this information will also be listed on a sticker on the motor. However, if it is a replacement motor, then the information on the sticker will only pertain to that replacement motor, and not the entire pump itself. The fact that motors are typically replaced more often than the entire pumps themselves is the reason that manufacturers also put the information on a nameplate on the pump housing.

DRAIN PLUG: All pumps will have at least one drain plug. Some pumps may even have 2 drain plugs. A drain plug is a small threaded plug that screws into the bottom of the pump housing-the front part of the pump that houses the pump basket. The drain plug is used to drain water out of the pump-primarily during a winterize. The drain plug is made of a weaker plastic than that of the pump housing. The reason is that if water is in the pump housing and this water does start to freeze, the drain plug is designed to pop out as the near freezing water begins to expand, relieving pressure from the pump housing. It is better to sacrifice a $4-$8 drain plug than it is to sacrifice a $75-$175 pump housing (the costs will depend on the manufacturer and model of the pump).

CLEANING THE PUMP BASKET: A pump basket will sit in the pump housing-the front part of the pump. Your pool will also have a skimmer basket in each of the skimmers. It is the job of these skimmer baskets to trap leaves and other debris so that they do not enter the plumbing. At times, though, some debris (particularly pine needles, dog hair, and other small debris) will escape the simmer basket(s) and will enter the plumbing. If this occurs, it is the job of the pump basket to trap this debris before it enters the equipment, where real damage could occur. Like the skimmer basket(s), the pump basket has very fine passages that will trap dirt or debris, but allow water to pass through. The pump basket is usually positioned under s clear lid, so you can literally see if it contains any debris. You will have to monitor the pump basket daily and clean it out whenever needed. Follow these step to clean your pump basket:

• Turn "off" the power to the equipment temporarily.
• Turn the valves (main drain and skimmers) to the "closed" position.
• Remove the lid from the pump housing-the front part of the pump.
• Remove the basket from the pump.
• Empty out any contents.
• Spray the basket with a garden hose and nozzle.
• Put the basket back in the pump.
• Make sure the O-ring on the pump lid is in place. Approximately once per month, or as often as it is needed, put a lubricant on the O-ring. It will help seal the lid (to prevent the entrance of any air into the pump) and it will add to the life of your pump lid O-ring. Any pool professional can sell you the lubricant.
• Put the pump lid back on the pump.
• Turn the valve for ONLY the main drain back to the "open" position.
• Turn the equipment "on" immediately. The entire process FROM turning "off" the equipment TO turning it back "on" should take you no more than 1 minute.
• If pump does not start after approximately 1 ½ minutes, you need to prime the pump.
• If pump does start, open the skimmer valve(s). Open each skimmer valve one at a time, and slowly to alleviate all the air. If there is more than one skimmer, open each one slowly.

NOTE: Most aboveground pools do not use any valves. The few that do include a slide valve before and after the pump.

Notes:
• Do not assume skimmer basket(s) will catch all leaves or debris. Check the pump basket just as often as the skimmer basket(s), and when needed, clean all the baskets. Even if every basket had to be cleaned, the entire process would take you less than 5 minutes.
• It is a good idea to have an O-ring lubricant in stock.

MOTOR: The back part of the pump. The motor converts electricity into the mechanical movement of the water. Does that sound confusing? Good-beyond priming the pump, cleaning the pump baskets, or replacing a pump basket, lid, lid O-ring, or drain plug, do NOT attempt to work on the motor. Rather, call your local pool professionals for a necessary service call. Basically, the motor is what powers the overall pump to circulate water-when you need to shut "off" the equipment, you are really shutting "off" the motor.

PRIMING THE PUMP: At times, the pump will lose its prime (ability to circulate-draw out and send back in-water). One example is when you are opening your pool after it has been winterized. Another example is after cleaning your pump basket. If the pump should lose its prime, as it will from time to time, it is very easy to re-prime. Here are the steps:

1. Make sure water level in the pool is sufficient (half way up the skimmer).
2. Check the main drain and the skimmer basket(s) for leaves or other obstructions. If leaves or obstructions are present, remove them.
3. Make sure the drain plug(s) are installed in the pump-they better be.
4. With the equipment "off", move the multiport handle to "RECIRCULATE" (some multiports will say "Whirlpool" instead of "Recirculate").
5. Open ALL valves-the main drain valve and the skimmer valve(s).
6. Remove the lid from the pump housing-the front part of the pump.
7. Insert a standard garden hose into the pump housing. Run the water and fill the pump housing, which will also fill the suction lines (main drain and skimmer), because they are plumbed (attached) to the pump.
8. When water fills all suction lines and overflows out of the pump housing, "close" all valves and then shut off the water (garden hose).
9. Secure the lid back on the pump. Make sure the O-ring is in place so that no air can enter into the equipment.
10. "Open" the main drain valve ONLY.
11. Turn "on" the equipment immediately.
12. Do not let the pump run for more than 1 ½ minutes when attempting to prime. If it has been close to 1 ½ minutes and the pump lid is beginning to fog up, then the water remaining in the pump housing (under the lid) is getting too hot. This heated water (due to friction) can destroy your pump seal and cause the pump to leak. If it has been close to 1 ½ minutes OR if you see fog on the lid, then the pump is not priming. SHUT "OFF" THE EQUIPMENT.
13. If the pump does not prime, shut off the power and repeat steps #5 - #12.
14. If the pump does prime, open the skimmer valve(s). Open the skimmer valve one at a time, and slowly to alleviate all air. If there is more than one skimmer, open each one slowly.
15. Once the pump is fully primed and all the valves (skimmer(s) and main drain) are open and water is circulating, shut "off" the equipment TEMPORARILY (it should take no more than 5 second), and move the multiport handle from "RECIRCULATE" (or "Whirlpool") to "FILTER."
16. Turn "on" the equipment immediately.
17. Allow the equipment to operate on "FILTER" until otherwise needed.

NOTE: If the equipment (pump and filter) sits at a higher elevation than the surface of the pool water, it may take repeated efforts to prime the pump. The reason is that the pump has to pull water UPHILL in order to draw and maintain a prime.

NOTE: The equipment for aboveground pools sit below the level of the water. You do not need a garden hose. The water will gravity drain out of the pool and into the plumbing in order to draw the prime. Most aboveground pools do not use any valves. The few that do include a slide valve before and after the pump.